I had looked forward to this evening for months, that's how long ago we signed up for "The Best of Barbara", a cooking class at Boston University, taught by Barbara Lynch, chef/owner of No. 9 Park.
My sister and her mother-in-law and I had been talking about taking a cooking class together for a few years now, but this was our first one. I had a feeling they'd like it. No. 9 Park is known as one of the best restaurants in Boston, and each time I've eaten there it has felt like a special occasion because of the food. Barbara is especially known for her way with pasta, and I was thrilled that we were going to be learning about and sampling one of her signature dishes, Prune stuffed Gnocchi with Vin Santo Glaze.
My cellphone rang as I was parallel parking. I was running late because there were no parking spots to be had, all the lots were full, and I'd been driving in circles until I finally got lucky and saw someone leaving. It was my sister calling, wondering where I was. She told me to hurry, said the class was about to start. I'd also told her earlier that the last class I went to had maybe 15 students, so I expected this to be the same. Not quite. There were about 100 people in the theatre style room. My sister waved me to the back where they'd saved a seat for me. Three wine glasses were set up, 2 that were already full with a white and red.
Barbara was joined by Cat Silirie, Wine Director, Kristen Murray, Pastry Chef, and Ben Elliot, Chef de Cuisine. No. 9 Park has one of the best wine lists in the city, with over 400 different wines. The first one we sampled, which she explained was a great apperitif white burgundy, from France, was a 2002 A & P De Villaine Aligote de Bouzeron. It was a very dry, smooth white with a hint of apples. I could also imagine it going very well with shellfish, especially oysters.
The first dish on the menu was a beet salad, with blue cheese and black olive croutons. This is also one of their signature items at the restaurant. It is a simple composed salad. The beets are cooked, then cut into a small dice. The blue cheese, which is from Great Hill Blue, a local dairy, is set out to soften. Once it is about room temperature, it should be soft enough to spread, and fill the bottom of a small round mold, about 1/3 inch thick by 3 inches across. The cheese is topped by an equal amount of the beets, then a bit of frisee that has been lightly tossed with lemon and olive oil. Tiny croutons that have been baked with olive puree and oil, are sprinkled over the top, and then the mold is removed. This was a delicious combination of flavors.
The next course was a sweet tomato tartin, which was a roasted tomato confit over carmelized onions, on puff pastry, with a drizzle of honey, and a dollop of marscapone cheese and fried basil as a garnish. This was amazing. The sweetness of the onions and tomato enhanced by the honey, almost gave it a dessert-like flavor.
Next up was the dish I'd been waiting for. The Prune Stuffed Gnocchi in Vin Santo Glaze. This is a delicate potato pasta filled with prunes that marinated in the sweet wine. The reserved wine then makes up a decadent sauce, once a bit of cream and then equal amounts of foie gras and butter are added. The dish is finished when the gnocchi are plated, the sauce is spooned over, and the little indents at the top of the gnocchi are filled with slivers of seared foie gras, and then sprinkled with almonds. This was as good as I hoped it would be. The gnocchi were so light and fluffy, and just made me ridiculously happy. I actually smiled as I drove home, thinking about them.
Cat explained a bit about our next wine, and that it was chosen especially to match the next course, proscuitto wrapped chicken. It was an Italian wine, from Piedmont, Italy. The 2000 Valdinera Nebbiolo D'alba "Santuoso", was a very dry, smooth red, with a bit of chewiness to it. It went very well with the chicken, which looked to be one of the easiest dishes to make. The chicken breast was filled with Robiola cheese, then topped with fresh tarragon. She then wrapped 2 thin slices of proscuitto around the chicken until it was completely covered. She pan seared the chicken in olive oil over medium heat for about 5 minutes on each side, and then put the pan in the oven at 375 for about 8 minutes, or until a thermometer read 165. She sliced the breast into 4 equal pieces of about an inch thick, and served it with a chopped salad of celery, frisee, onion, calamata olives, and tomato, tossed with olive oil, lemon, salt and pepper. This was wonderful, and is probably the first dish I will recreate at home. It is a great make ahead meal too. As Barbara explained, you could pan sear the chicken, and then refrigerate and bake it the next day. The Robiola cheese could also be substituted by any other that you prefer. The Robiola had a smooth, mild, and somewhat creamy taste. I'd like to try it with yogurt cheese or goat, and spinach as a filling.
Next up was dessert, and my favorite wine of the night. Cat came around with a small, chilled bottle of 2003 Braida Brachetto d'Acqui, a dessert wine from Piedmont, Italy. It was a deep rose color, with a wonderful fizz and flavors of strawberry and rhubarb, which is why it was picked to go with the rhubarb compote, topped with pavlovas and meyer lemon ice. This was also a dish that looked fairly easy to make. The pavlovas can be made ahead, and are just whipped egg whites, sugar, salt, vinegar, and cornstarch. The mixture is piped into individual mounds, then baked at 225 degrees (oven is set to 300 initially, then reduced to 225 when they go in the oven to bake). The compote is rhubarb, superfine sugar, lemon juice and vanilla that stews together for an hour. The lemon ice is just 4 cups water, 1/3 cup sugar and 1/2 cup meyer lemon juice that goes into the freezer and is stirred once an hour until frozen. This is also a dish I will definitely make. It was the first time I had rhubarb, and I loved the sweet tart flavor of the fruit and the sugary pavlovas that were chewy in spots and then just dissolved. We used to make pavlovas like this as cookies, and would add crushed peppermint stick and chocolate chips, which is a great combo.
As I drove home, completely sated by a wonderful meal, the last thing I expected in the middle of April, was to run into a snow storm. Sure enough though, I drove right into a blizzard-like squall, that lasted about ten exits, and was quite bizzare. After the winter we've had, I was glad to put my days of driving like a little old lady behind me, leaning forward with both hands on the steering wheel, going 50 mph tops, and hoping my little car wouldn't slide off the road. It didn't. I made it home, and went off to sleep, dreaming of gnocchi and pavlovas.
:) Pam